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Documents and Downloads


Here are some starting numbers I know some of our customers use. Please remember, these are only a starting point for the fixture. Placement will change for different brands and sizes of garment as well as different sizes of logos.

 Ladies  Mens
Small  C – 11  C – 15
Medium  C – 11  C – 15
Large  C – 15  E – 19
XL  C – 15  D or E 20
2XL  E – 20  F – 20
3XL  E – 20  F – 24

We suggest that you use the guide on the next page to figure out where the logo should be placed on your first shirt. Then, put a chalk mark or piece of tape on your first shirt where you want the logo. Next put the inner ring & backing material in your fixture. Then pull your shirt over the station until your seams hit the top of the station. Adjust your fixture so the center of the hoop is over the mark when you push the hoop down. Then look at the number the fixture is circling and the letter the top of the collar is pulled down to. The letter is very important because it sets the height of the logo on the shirt. You can then document the letter and number for future jobs. You can usually use this same setting for three sizes of shirts. Start with the middle size for your setup and then you can usually go to one size larger and one size smaller. Example, if you have Medium, Large, and XL shirts. Make your mark on the Large and get your fixture set up. You should be able to do the Medium and the XL at the same placement. If you go up or down 2 sizes from where you started you will probably want to mark a shirt and check the placement again. 19 is a good starting point for a lot of shirts but you really have to check the first set. Once you have the placement for a logo on a certain brand of shirt it is very easy to setup. You can not make a generic chart that will fit all brands of shirts and all logos. Shirts and logo size vary to much as well as customer preference.

If you need any more information, please give us a call.
Midwest Products Inc.



Left Chest Placement

Measure down in a straight line from where the shoulder seem and the collar or ribbing meet. 7-9″ for men and 5-7″ for women’s garments. Measure over from the center of the shirt to that line (usually 4-5″). Place the center of the design at the intersection.

For a child’s garment measure down about 5″ and over about 3″ When the shirt has no placket or other structure measure down the center of the shirt, parallel to the first line. Then measure to the vertical line (usually 4-5″). You can make a template of a placket out of cardboard or plastic to use as a marker.

Use the snaps or button on jackets as a guide. Between the second and third snap/button works well.

Use the bottom of a V-neck as a guide.

To place a design on the left and right chest use the document grid on your HoopMaster. First find the placment on one side, then note the number the fixture is circling and the letter the shirt is pulled down to. Then use the same number and letter on the other side of the garment when hooping.

Center Back

Back placement is dictated by the size of the designs and the jacket. Close the jacket and place it face down on the worktable. Measure 3 to 4 inches from the seam at the bottom of the collar. Add half the height of the design to find the center. It will usually turn out to be 8 to 10 inches down from the center back collar seam to the center point of the design.

For a child’s jacket the center will usually fall between 5 and 8 inches down from the collar. A distance of 2.5 inches from the collar to the top of the design is a good rule of thumb. Add half the height of the design to find the center of the embroidery.

As with any design placement, use a model or a mannequin to verify your decisions. An actual size sew out placed on the back is a good way to visualize the finished product.

Instructions for adding Mighty Hoops to Barudan machines

Frame Outline Names:
Each Might Hoop Frame Outline consists of 2 files, an .FMO and a .BMP file.
So there is a MH5.5×5.5.FMO and a MH5.5×55.BMP file for each hoop)

Frame Outline Offset:
None of these frame outlines are set for any particular model machine. They have no offsets.
So each one, once loaded into the machine, will need the Frame offset adjusted to match the machine.
See attached K-Series Frame Outline Offset.pdf for instructions (X-Series is similar).
The good thing with the Mighty Hoops is that they have the same centering as the smaller Barudan Blue hoops.
So you can use a small Barudan Blue hoop to center the hoop, and then copy this centering to the Mighty Hoops. See the following instructions for details.

Basic Instructions:

You will need to download the folder and PDF file from our file storage site by clicking on this link

Barudan hoop file link

To add Mighty Hoops, start by copying the complete Frame_MightyHoop folder to a USB stick.
Then manually delete all the frame .BMP and FMO files that you don’t plan on using. This way you are only getting the hoop sizes you need, and not all the extra sizes.

  1. Load the Frame_MightyHoop folder into the machine.
  2. Install a Round Barudan Blue hoop on the machine and pick it for the frame outline file.
  3. Load a design with a center origin, and put it in Drive mode.
  4. Use the Hoop centering feature in the Trace menu to center the design in the Round Barudan Blue hoop.
  5. Exit Drive mode.
  6. Pick a Mighty Hoop in the Frame outline file list.
  7. Use the “K-Series Frame Outline Offset instructions.pdf” and set the current centering for this Mighty Hoop. (Should be the same centering as the Round Barudan Blue hoops)
  8. Repeat steps 6 ~8 for each Mighty Hoops you have, and set the Offset.

For more details on loading and setting Frame Outlines, please refer to the Automat’s Instruction Manual.

Contact Barudan Technical Support for more information.

If you have any other questions, please give us a call or email us.